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Hem the bodice and insert elastic (VERSION A)

Skip to VERSION B hemming instructions

Fold the remainder of the bodice hem up toward the wrong side by 2¼" (5.7 cm).

If using woven fabric, the hem edge will be folded under by 3/8" (1 cm).

If using knit fabric, the hem edge will lay flat.

Secure the hem in place with pins (or hand-baste in place) and topstitch the hem edge from the exterior, leaving 3" (~7.5 cm) unstitched at either side of the zipper on the front bodice. Make sure that your topstitching is no less than 2 1/8"  from the hem in order to leave room for elastic (if using) to be inserted.

You also want your topstitching to run along the bottom edge of the front bodice pockets to secure them in place. Remove the basted seams of the bottom pocket edges.

Cut a length of 2" (5 cm) wide elastic to the length specified for your size in the size chart on page 3. Use a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic to feed it through the hem casing, coming out at the opposite end on the other side of the front bodice.

Safety pin the elastic to the hem casing at each side of the zipper. Try on the jacket to test the fit of the elastic per your comfort. It is designed to be a loose, oversized fit.

Topstitch the elastic in place at each end next to the zipper tape on either side, aligning your topstitching with the bias tape topstiching from the zipper installation. Next, topstitch the elastic to the casing 3" (~7.5 cm) away from the zipper, allowing the fabric to lay flat and the elastic to remain unstretched for this portion, stabilizing the hem next to the zipper. Then complete the topstitching to close the hem casing along the bottom of the pocket.

Hem the bodice (VERSION B)

Turn the bodice hem to the wrong side by 2¼" (~5.5 cm), maintaining the 3/8" (1 cm) fold you pressed in step 5 for a woven fabric (or if sewing with knit fabric, the serged edge will remain flat here). Topstitch around the entire perimeter to secure the hem. Your topstitching should also catch the bottom edge of the front bodice pockets (remove the basting stitches).

Hem the sleeves (BOTH VERSIONS)

For woven fabrics, turn the sleeve hem to the wrong side by 3/8" (1 cm), then by 2¼" (~5.5 cm).

For knit fabrics, serge the edge of the sleeve opening, then turn the sleeve to the wrong side by 2¼" (~5.5 cm). The serged edge will lay flat on the interior.

Topstitch around the perimeter to secure the hem. Leave a 2" opening in the stitching if inserting elastic (optional).

Insert elastic (VERSION A ONLY)

Refer to page 3 of the pattern instructions for suggested elastic lengths per size. Use a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic to help feed the elastic through the sleeve hem casing. It is recommended to try on the garment to make sure the elastic is comfortable around your wrist.

Once the elastic is fed through (make sure it is not twisted in the casing), secure the ends of the elastic together and close the hem where you inserted the elastic to finish.

Another option for inserting the elastic is to attach the elastic to the sleeve hem before turning:

Cut elastic per your size and secure the ends into a tube.

Align the edge of the elastic with the sleeve edge while the sleeve is turned inside out (the elastic will be in the interior side of the sleeve).

Either serge or zigzag stitch the elastic to the sleeve along the edge.

Once the elastic is attached, turn the sleeve hem toward the interior and topstitch in place, concealing the elastic. For this version, I added extra rows of decorative topstitching.

Here's how it looks from the exterior:

And that's it! Your Cozi Jacket is complete!


March 10, 2021 — Casey Sibley