Because the Romy Wrap is a more detailed style with a custom fit, it is likely that you will have to make adjustments to make the fit just right for your body.

Below are a few tips for making simple adjustments to the pattern for your perfect fit!

Lengthening or shortening the pattern

Lengthen/shorten lines are provided on the front and back bodice and sleeve pattern pieces, as well as the bodice facing, should you need to adjust the pattern length for your individual height. Cut along these lines to separate the pattern into two pieces, then shift them apart or together. When lengthening or shortening the pattern, make sure to shift the pieces straight up or down along the grainline to maintain the proper proportions and overall shape of the pattern pieces. Once your pieces have been shifted the desired amount, tape them back together and draft new lines to connect the pieces smoothly at the edges (shown in red on the diagram to the right).

When lengthening the Peplum/Skirt pieces, you will lengthen from the hemline and draft new curves that blend back to the original pattern edges.

When lengthening or shortening the Bodice Facing pattern piece, it is helpful to align the facing on top of the Front Bodice pattern piece and move them together to ensure that they align properly.

Bust Adjustments

The Romy pattern includes options for B, C, or D cup sizes, but if you need a cup size larger than a D, it’s a relatively easy adjustment. The pleats at the waistline will act as the “dart” that needs to be manipulated in order to add ease in the bust.

Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)

Use the size chart to find the D cup Full Bust measurement that corresponds to your High Bust measurement. Then subtract the D cup Full Bust measurement from your full bust measurement. Divide that number by 2 and that will be how much ease you need to add (since we are dividing the ease between both sides of the Front Bodice).

To start, mark the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance at the armscye. The approximate bust point is marked on the pattern piece. Draw a line from the armscye notch to the bust point, then from the bust point straight down to the waistline.

Cut along these two lines, starting at the waist, and stop at the armscye seam line. Then clip into the seam allowance to—but not through—the seam line to create a hinge at the armscye notch.

Spread the lower corner of the pattern away at the waist, pivoting at the armscye hinge. The gap created at the bust point should be equal to the bust difference you calculated for your FBA (marked as ‘A’ in the second illustration).

Redraft the bottom edge of the pattern piece. You can either add a waist pleat to accommodate the additional ease at the waist, OR you can divide the additional ease equally and add to each existing waist pleat (the space marked ‘B’ below). You just want the finished waist measurement to remain the same for your size after the pleats are sewn. Depending on how much ease you added, you may also need to draft a smoother armscye curve (remove the seam allowance before doing this and add it back on after the curve is redrawn).

You’ll also want to smooth the waist curve at the bottom (shown in the last third illustration below). It will be slightly lower where you made the adjustment.

Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)

Calculate the difference between your Full Bust measurement and the Full Bust measurement on the size chart that corresponds with your High Bust measurement. Divide that by two and that is how much you need to reduce the bust ease on the Front Bodice pattern piece. Similar to the FBA, you’ll create the same slash lines, cut, and pivot the pattern at the armscye hinge. Except this time you will overlap the pattern at the bust point to reduce the ease in the bust.

Redraft the waist line (it will be slightly higher where you made the adjustment) and adjust the width of the pleats to reflect how much ease was removed from the waist. Depending on how much ease you removed, you may also need to draft a smoother armscye curve (remove the seam allowance before doing this and add it back on after the curve is redrawn).

Grading between sizes

Many people will be different sizes between their bust, waist, and hips. This can be easily accommodated by grading—or blending—the pattern lines between two or more sizes. Simply print both sizes (the pattern pieces are nested for easy grading) and draw new pattern lines that blend between the sizes you need. When grading, make sure you grade all corresponding pattern pieces. Examples shown on the Front Bodice, Front Bodice Facing, and Front skirt, below.

September 23, 2020 — Casey Sibley