We are ALMOST DONE! Woohoo! In this post we’ll put the finishing touches on the Romy wrap.
If you are forgoing the sleeve cuffs for a straight hemmed sleeve (or maybe a gathered sleeve using shirring?), you can hem the sleeve now and skip ahead to adding closures to the garment. Keep reading if you want to go all out and include the cuffs!
Assemble the sleeve placket
Cut a slit in each sleeve perpendicular to the hem at the placket opening location indicated on the pattern piece. The slit should be 3" (~9cm) long.
Spread the slit open and align the Sleeve Placket Binding, right sides together, with the edge of the slit from end to end. At the center of the placket binding where it meets the apex of the slit, allow for about a 1/4" (6 mm) gap between the edge of the binding and the slit edges.
Sew along the edge of the binding at 1/4" (6 mm) to secure the binding to the sleeve along the placket slit opening. When you get to the center at the top/apex of the slit, go slowly and reposition the sleeve fabric as you go to avoid sewing gathers or bunches, while maintaining the 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance along the placket binding. You may need to stop at the center to reposition the sleeve fabric.
Press the binding away from the sleeve while pressing the seam allowance toward the binding.
Next press the edge of the binding in to the wrong side by 1/4" (6 mm).
Then fold the binding in half to align the fold on top of the placket seam. Topstitch the placket binding in place to conceal the raw edges and secure the placket binding to the sleeve.
On the placket leg toward the front of the sleeve, baste the placket leg down toward the interior of the sleeve. Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Flip the sleeve over and stitch a line to secure the fold in the apex of the placket (only stitch the placket, do not stitch it to the sleeve). This stitch will anchor the placket in a folded position on the interior of the sleeve. Repeat for opposite sleeve placket.
Baste sleeve pleats
Fold, press, and pin pleats in sleeve hem. Baste to secure in place with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. The pleats should point toward the sleeve placket/back of sleeve on the exterior side (sorry this image is blurry!).
Assemble the sleeve cuffs
Press a 5/8" fold toward the wrong side along one long edge of each sleeve cuff.
Align the unfolded edge of the cuff with the sleeve hem edge, right sides together, with 5/8" (1.5 cm) extending beyond each side of the placket opening. Sew the cuff to the sleeve end. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" (3 mm).
Press the cuff away from the sleeve while pressing the seam allowance toward the cuff.
Fold the cuff back on itself, right sides together, to align the folded edge with the seam edge you just sewed and align the ends of the cuff. Sew each end of the cuff with a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance, right up against—but not through—the edge of the placket on both ends. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" (3 mm).
Turn the cuff right side out, fully extending the corners, and press. Make sure that the folded edge, now on the interior of the sleeve, is aligned with the cuff seam. Pin in place from the exterior and topstitch the cuff closed, making sure to catch the folded edge on the interior as you sew. Continue topstitching/ edgestitching around the perimeter of the cuff to finish.
Repeat for opposite sleeve/cuff.
Add buttons or desired closures to the garment
Add one button and buttonhole to each cuff (the buttonhole will be on the top side of the cuff that overlaps).
Sew a buttonhole in each wrap end at the waist. Then add a button to the left exterior side side (when worn) and the right interior side seam (when worn). It helps to anchor the buttons on either the french side seam, or if using a more delicate fabric, anchor the button a little higher at the crossroads of the french seam and flat felled seam of the waist.